বেনারসি তাঁত শিল্প হারিয়ে যাওয়া এক গর্বিত ঐতিহ্যের নাম BENAROSI : the hidden handloom heritage Bangladesh

*বেনারসি তাঁত শিল্প হারিয়ে যাওয়া এক গর্বিত ঐতিহ্যের নাম

BENAROSI : the hidden handloom heritage Bangladesh*

benarosi is the handloom heritage of bangladesh which weaving the skilled craftsmen completely manual process by sacrificing the craftmanship and sweats .. though their maken saree renowned in home and abroad and selling in high cost of rate but they are leading poverty life by getting very poor amount . as result this very creative handloom heritage rapidly hidden from the country . the aggression of indian textile benarosi and pakistani lehenga is the most reason for hidden this prestigious traditional heritage .

it is understood that though the Mirpur Banarasi Polli was established in 1995, there were a very few Godi Ghars (mercantile office) during 1990s. These Godi Ghars are the Banarasi Sarees manufacturing factories and retail and wholesale centres. In course of time, some other Godi Ghars have taken places on the basis of increasing demand. As some new entrepreneurs joined with the old and traditional Godi Ghars, the area has become a complete Banarasi Polli(village). Afterwards, the factories have been shifted to other places and the Godi Ghars have been converted into Show rooms. After that, the reputation of Banarasi Polli and demand for sarees started increasing. Banarasi Polli has become very familiarized by supplying sarees to both home and abroad. Now, there are 108 show rooms in the Banarasi Polli. Mirpur Banarasi Polli is the only Banarasi Polli not only in Dhaka, but also in the entire Bangladesh.

* A thorough investigation reveals that the struggle of the most famous traditional textiles in Bangladesh is mostly the result of lacking of backward linkage, not giving proper wages to the artisans, not using new technology, less variation in design, Indian influence in this market etc. But still it has huge demand to the general people just for its good tradition and reputation and now-a-days it is also being exported to many countries from Bangladesh. Recently government has started to give some facilities for the growth of this artisan industry.

Previously large amount of people were involved with this industry in ‘Mirpur Banarasi Palli’, which is the main place of Banarasi for all time in Bangladesh. Mirpur is a suburb in Dhaka where Bangladesh’s largest Banarasi manufacturing and selling occurs. The area is called ‘Mirpur Banarasi Palli’. More than 20,000 looms were in production in the area. But at present only about 5000 looms are there and less than 3500 are in production. Generally the number of artisans is equal to the number of looms in production but there are some other people who are also involved with this industry. Mostly male workers are dominating the sector however few number of females are also assisting the artisans. Educational qualifications of the workers are very poor because most of them are working here following their ancestors. Physical survey found that most of the artisans having long career which is in an average 25 years.

the workers of this traditional industry don’t get the basic needs and the others help and support from the government properly. He emphasizes that the artisans and the salesmen should be given a life security from government after their retirement. He pointed some obstacles and problems of this industry like they have to import the raw materials with tax and duty which is increasing the product price means reducing sales, accommodation problem is very acute in Bihari palli where most of the dwellers are involved with this industry.

* Most common problems of this industry which are hindering its growth:

High cost of raw materials

 As mentioned before, high cost of raw materials is one of the main problems of Banarasi production. Most of these raw materials are imported and they have to pay high import tax and duties.

Decreasing demand of Banarasi

 Open market policy pursued by the government has opened the country to Indian sarees. Indian sarees for their cheaper prices, varied designs and availability usually lure more local buyers. Besides that, the expansion of Banarasi industry in different areas of the country, such as Tangi ,Kaliganj, Rupganj,Shirajganj, Pabna has increased the supply in comparison with the demand. So gradually the sale of Mirpur Banarasi is declining.

Lack of variation in design

 The designs of Banarasi sarees are almost traditional. The local designers do not have any institutional training and have no interaction with professional designers. So lack of variation in design is one of the causes of decreasing demand of local Banarasi.

The wages of the Banarasi workers are not sufficient and not regularly paid.

Because of inadequate financial and technical supports the entrepreneurs can’t produce standard quality of sarees in large amount.

The market of Banarasi is mostly limited within the country. As there is no attempt for exporting Banarasi, it hardly has access to international market.

The publicity of Banarasi saree is not sufficient.

Customers taste is changing day by day. Their preference for foreign products is also a cause of declining the sale of Banarasi saree.

 Banarasi is the aristocrat part of the Bangladesh’s traditional clothing sector which at present passing a hard time but with the new trends of fashion the demand is increasing day by day to fashion conscious people so it can be said that in upcoming days Banarasi industry has a bright future. Now government is also taking some initiatives to raise the industry. Already in Bhashantek there is a registered area for another Banarasi palli and also near the Padma Bridge about 130-150 acres land is proposed for rehabilitating the workers and it may be considered as an important measure to extend this traditional industry.

  History

The market was established in 1905. But in 1995, it has started into a new dimension. The area is now known as Banarasi Polli or village. Banarasi Polli and demand for sarees started increasing now. Banarasi Polli has become very familiarized by supplying sarees to both home and abroad. Now, there are 108 showrooms in the Banarasi Polli.

Buyers can buy Saris at a retail price. There is another Polli for Jamdani. The name is Narayanganj Jamdani Palli.

  photo location  : Bangladesh

Address Location

The Banarasi Polli (মিরপুর বেনারসি পল্লী) is at

Section-10, Block-A,
Lane-1-4, Original-10,
Mirpur, Dhaka-1221, Bangladesh

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